43 Ft. Silverton

Upgrading the old Windlass to a newer unit meant fiberglassing the old mounting hole closed. Being two inches thick means that this has to be a strong repair so as not to crack the fiberglass under extreme stress.

windlass

windlass

windlass

We started the task by making a fiberglass bottom that was a half-inch thick. This was laid up on a glass table with a mold release under it.

windlass

The bottom is nice and flat. The grinder will be put to it to roughen it up.

windlass

The edges are made smoother for a clean job.

windlass

windlass

The hole is cut out to remove the wet, rough wood and give a clean area to repair. (Note: The hole is cut with an approximate 60 degree angle set inward for strength on the upward presure).

windlass

The fiberglass is ground out at approximately 20 degrees.

windlass

The gelcoat and/or epoxy MUST be ground off completely where the bottom plate will be laminated to.

windlass

The bottom plate is cut out to fit around the cleat plate.

windlass

The hole is taped off to the edge of the ground gelcoat. This makes it cleaner and easier to sand level when finished. The fiberglass is laid up alternating chopped strand mat and woven roven, smalled to larger cuts. About 16 layers makes a half- inch.

windlass

The bottom plate is installed with a resin mixture called cabosil and is bolted tight with stainless lag bolts. Not shown is the core material. Once the plate was on the bottom, the hole from the top was filled with a cabosil - microballon mixture. Then the fibers were put on top while it was still wet. This works great for a core that is sandwiched together but would be weak by itself. Some holes were also drilled in the wood core to make resin fingers for strength.

windlass

An eight inch sander with 80 grit makes quick work of leveling out this spot. (Note: No fillers)

windlass

Now, the gelcoat. The whole mounting area (not the sides) got approximately an eighth-inch of gelcoat. It was then finished, sanded, and buffed.

windlass

A little gelcoat was brushed underneath.

windlass

The Windlass was installed, viewed from the bottom. You can see the 3-inch holes that were drilled and gelcoated.

windlass

After a control box, new 110 amp breaker, new helm switch, and wires run, it looks and acts just as it should.

windlass